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Jean-Claude Biver on Zenith's New Chronograph MovementsharetweetshareZenith is introducing "the El Primero on the Twenty-first century," as revealed by Zenith CEO Jean-Claude Biver in the exclusive interview while using Editorial Director of Ebner Publishing's Watch Division Rüdiger Bucher.Zenith is introducing "the El Primero in the Modern," as revealed by Zenith CEO Jean-Claude Biver within an exclusive interview with WatchTime collaborator and Chronos Editor-in-Chief Rüdiger Bucher.Since early January 2017, Jean-Claude Biver, the actual top of the watch division at luxury goods group LVMH, has additionally led the Zenith watch manufacture - together with serving as the CEO of TAG Heuer and Chairman of Hublot.Within a recent interview, Biver revealed his plans for the future: On March 22 at Baselworld, Zenith will show a whole new chronograph movement, called El Primero 21, with 1/100th-second timing.RB: Mr. Biver, at the beginning of January you personally took control of the interim leadership of Zenith. You cited your worries about its corporate figures.JCB: The figures alone are not the key aspect. Being in the red is unimportant for me naturally, but it is a manifestation of deeper problems. It is necessary to understand the reason behind unhealthy numbers. Since then am i able to act accordingly.RB: Zenith what food was in the red in both 2015 and 2016. What were the reasons why because of this?JCB: There's no single reason. It has an abundance of smaller reasons. Will it be the item? Is there a lot of employees? Will the marketing ought to be better? Will it be the distribution policy? Et cetera. None of those factors will be the only reason. You will discover weaknesses every now and then and they add up. Overall, the full company revealed weak hands energy. They weren't progressing quick enough for me personally. And also, since I wasn't able to get any more patience within myself, for this reason I took control of the leadership.RB: You are successful right away with Hublot and TAG Heuer. Would you compare the two situations with Zenith's?JCB: Generally not very. For example, as i began leading the corporation in 2014, TAG Heuer was earning lots of money, not like Zenith. Nevertheless the numbers at TAG Heuer didn't interest me either. When a organization is profitable that doesn't mean that all things are running perfectly. When I reached TAG Heuer, I needed to determine the business enterprise plan. I want to to become knowledgeable about what it's all about the product or service strategy plus the price strategy, the marketing plus the distribution policies. I needed to find out that which was happening in development and research. These analyses demonstrated the place that the weaknesses were - and then we made an effort to correct them. Basically had only looked at the numbers I would not have changed much else. Therefore, much like the positive numbers at TAG Heuer didn't satisfy me, I am not saying terribly focused on the lower numbers at Zenith.The revolutionary Zenith El Primero 36,000 VPH (8,900 euros)RB: Precisely why are the numbers at Zenith so bad?JCB: Which will go rapidly for any pure manufacture like Zenith. As a manufacture is really a strength, yet it's and a weakness because you have to meet a nominal amount production number to become profitable.RB: Zenith may be producing just 20,000 replica watches per year.JCB: Yes. At a manufacture approximately 200 employees the profitability threshold is around 25,000 to 30,000 replica watches per year. If you can't achieve those quantities you might inevitably generate losses.RB: What exactly are your concrete plans for Zenith?JCB: Zenith is part of friends. Because I'm in charge of the LVMH watch brands TAG Heuer, Hublot, and Zenith, I want to know very well what position Zenith can take inside group.RB: Let's begin with Hublot. It's positioned at the very top.JCB: At Hublot we talk about "inaccessible and disruptive luxury." These replica watches cost way too high for almost all consumers. They're "disruptive," from the mindset of design, extremely innovative inside materials, with very secure and innovative movements, meaning we're breaking with conventions. Hublot is compared to Ferrari, that is its partner since 2009. And TAG Heuer can be a) the best choice in "accessible" luxury inside Swiss watch industry, b) always avant-garde, and c) using a extremely high "perceived value." A TAG Heuer watch should always look more costly than. Just have a look at our chronograph tourbillon. It is 15,000 euros it but sometimes easily cost twice as much. Patek Philippe president Thierry Stern criticized me and declared the watch was too cheap. That has been the top compliment we have ever got and justified our strategy.Traditional watchmaking: the newest Zenith Heritage 146 in blue ($6,700/6,900 euros)RB: Precisely what does Zenith mean?JCB: Zenith symbolizes haute horology as well as traditional watchmaking art at reasonable prices. [It should be] affordable luxury however with a far more classical approach than TAG Heuer watches , as well as a price that lies between Hublot and TAG Heuer. There are brands that also mean traditional watchmaking but they are unattainable for the majority of people. So Zenith isn't a replacement for these very expensive brands, but we're also inside same league.RB: Therefore you carry on and see Zenith where it has been?JCB: Zenith was always in this price category. And Zenith was always a manufacture. It's achieve to perfect traditional watchmaking while continuing to make new developments, as well as modernize it and make it affordable.RB: Just what price that defines affordability to suit your needs?JCB: That depends about the product. Easily present an ultra-thin watch having an in-house movement for 3,900 euros, that's affordable - because one usually expects that form of watch to cost around 9,000 euros. But if we're dealing with a minute repeater which could cost 200,000 euros and you'll understand it at Zenith for suppose 80,000 euros, then that price of 80,000 euros can also be "affordable."RB: A fantastic price-performance ratio wil attract to the customer. However that alone is not enough to generate a watch actually desirable. Exactly what is the method to obtain Zenith's desirability?JCB: The skill, the tradition, the sweetness, the look, the exclusivity, the quality, the prestige of the brand, the elegance of the products, the innovation with the movement etc. These are generally all qualities Zenith can give you. I wear this Zenith [showing the newest, blue Heritage 146 on his wrist] since i like its size and ease.Biver with his fantastic Zenith Heritage 146 in blue"Less is more" attracts me. Fat additionally we need good marketing. We won't reach our customers once we communicate Zenith in the same way as [we do] TAG Heuer or Hublot. We should instead find the right way to address the Zenith customer.RB: Just what does the face appear to be?JCB: A cultivated personality who desires a great gift but spends money carefully. An individual who could invest in a watch for 25,000 euros, but won't get it done as it disagrees his mindset. I realize plenty of wealthy people that still won't cross a certain line when creating a purchase order.RB: You can offer the best prices by utilizing movements from external companies like ETA or Sellita. Is an alternative?JCB: No custom watches , never, and it'll don't be an option. radiomir panerai A Zenith comes with a in-house movement, full stop.Keep reading interviews on site two.sharetweetshare